A bit of heatshrink and a few cable ties to finish off. I usually wrap things twice with tape before using the ties, this prevents them from chewing up the outer insulation.
Saturday, 27 June 2009
Motor wiring
I got the motor wiring done this morning. They are in parallel. To change to a series setup I simply have to swap out the connector blocks to three 1-1s, instead of two 2-1s.
A bit of heatshrink and a few cable ties to finish off. I usually wrap things twice with tape before using the ties, this prevents them from chewing up the outer insulation.
A bit of heatshrink and a few cable ties to finish off. I usually wrap things twice with tape before using the ties, this prevents them from chewing up the outer insulation.
Build proper - stage 2
Starting from the back:
This next piccy shows the back axle of the truck. To set the tracking right (well - straight anyway) I've had to add four M3 washers under the cross-rod jamnuts. If you look carefully you can see the top link/axle mount nut is just a squidge on the short side. My fault (partly) cos I put a washer on the other end of the screw. The bottom one works out perfectly as it doesn't need the extra length to go through the axle stay. The short steering rod worked out fine, even though I added an extra locknut on top of the bracket to both clamp the bracket better, and to raise the outer end so as to give it a straighter push/pull.
Moving to the front:
Here I've changed the top link screws for much longer ones, and put two extra M3 plain nuts on each screw, going on before the conical washer. This has had the effect of giving me just a bit more (5/32 or about 4mm) tyre-to-rod clearance. As standard, the tyres just brush the rods at full steering deflection, and now they don't. A future upgrade may well be to put wheel extensions on all four corners, to increase the track width (it seems various sizes are available). At the minute there is no point doing anything to the standard steering stops as the rods limit steering travel in any case.
Top down:
A rubbish pic I know (it's a cheap camera under artificial light) but you can just about see what I'm talking about re the tyre clearances (front at the top of the piccy).
Other bits:
Mostly ready to fit now. The servo mounts have been to the vice and received a radiusing on their bottom edges. A larger radius on one side (towards the centre of the truck) should mean they better match the profile of the gearboxes. Their top surfaces have been wrapped with thick wide plastic tape so that the double-sided tape used (white - as seen on one of them) to help mount the servos themselves won't take the paint off if I come to change it. Tape-to-tape will stick together better too.
And on with the electrics...
This is what I think I'll need. Basically I've got to pair off the batteries to supply the ESC; and then pair off the ECS output to supply both motors. I've got some standard 'Japanese' bullet connectors, which are exactly the same as Tamaya used in the first place, so I don't need to chop the motor connectors off. The other ones are heavy duty automotive 6.3mm female blades, which match the 2-1 male fitting blocks, these are to twin the motor supply. New wire is 16AWG, which is an upgrade on the stock variety, the difference in size is seen by comparing the standard piece (which has connectors on here).
This next piccy shows the back axle of the truck. To set the tracking right (well - straight anyway) I've had to add four M3 washers under the cross-rod jamnuts. If you look carefully you can see the top link/axle mount nut is just a squidge on the short side. My fault (partly) cos I put a washer on the other end of the screw. The bottom one works out perfectly as it doesn't need the extra length to go through the axle stay. The short steering rod worked out fine, even though I added an extra locknut on top of the bracket to both clamp the bracket better, and to raise the outer end so as to give it a straighter push/pull.
Moving to the front:
Here I've changed the top link screws for much longer ones, and put two extra M3 plain nuts on each screw, going on before the conical washer. This has had the effect of giving me just a bit more (5/32 or about 4mm) tyre-to-rod clearance. As standard, the tyres just brush the rods at full steering deflection, and now they don't. A future upgrade may well be to put wheel extensions on all four corners, to increase the track width (it seems various sizes are available). At the minute there is no point doing anything to the standard steering stops as the rods limit steering travel in any case.
Top down:
A rubbish pic I know (it's a cheap camera under artificial light) but you can just about see what I'm talking about re the tyre clearances (front at the top of the piccy).
Other bits:
Mostly ready to fit now. The servo mounts have been to the vice and received a radiusing on their bottom edges. A larger radius on one side (towards the centre of the truck) should mean they better match the profile of the gearboxes. Their top surfaces have been wrapped with thick wide plastic tape so that the double-sided tape used (white - as seen on one of them) to help mount the servos themselves won't take the paint off if I come to change it. Tape-to-tape will stick together better too.
And on with the electrics...
This is what I think I'll need. Basically I've got to pair off the batteries to supply the ESC; and then pair off the ECS output to supply both motors. I've got some standard 'Japanese' bullet connectors, which are exactly the same as Tamaya used in the first place, so I don't need to chop the motor connectors off. The other ones are heavy duty automotive 6.3mm female blades, which match the 2-1 male fitting blocks, these are to twin the motor supply. New wire is 16AWG, which is an upgrade on the stock variety, the difference in size is seen by comparing the standard piece (which has connectors on here).
Friday, 26 June 2009
Something I'll probably come back to later...
SHOCKING STUFF!!!
As I mentioned before, I'd had some thoughts about using long-length laydown shocks to suspend the 'Zilla. I've placed them in at this stage just to have a proper look at the geometry. They fit in there quite well, with just a bit of preload to support the weight of the centre chassis and batteries. As I've arranged things they centre up on the radiused area of the stock axle braces. They're mounted at the bottom someway inboard on the top (stock) swivel hub mount hole.
I think to look better in this arrangement the main frame rails need to be shorter, say an inch or so longer (25-30mm)(on each end) than the centre section itself is. There needs to be enough room on the rail ends for the body mounts to fit (as standard), the cross rails need to go next, and then the top shock mounts themselves mount just ahead of centre body assembly.
What I DON'T WANT TO DO at the moment is to cut down my existing frame rails. I want to build the truck as close to stock as possible to begin with, which means using the suggested and supplied cantilever setup, and then to (perhaps) work away from that, using this system as a benchmark to see I'm developing further in either a positive or negative direction.
When I get a chance I'll draw up the new rails on paper (or a screen). I'd have three options to get them made/make them to my specifications, contact Eric at ESP to see if he likes the idea and what he'd charge to have a go at a pair; try scrounging a suitable piece of similarly sized section and then cut and drill it myself; or go and see my mate Martin, who owns a lovely milling machine and sometimes only charges beer money!
As I mentioned before, I'd had some thoughts about using long-length laydown shocks to suspend the 'Zilla. I've placed them in at this stage just to have a proper look at the geometry. They fit in there quite well, with just a bit of preload to support the weight of the centre chassis and batteries. As I've arranged things they centre up on the radiused area of the stock axle braces. They're mounted at the bottom someway inboard on the top (stock) swivel hub mount hole.
I think to look better in this arrangement the main frame rails need to be shorter, say an inch or so longer (25-30mm)(on each end) than the centre section itself is. There needs to be enough room on the rail ends for the body mounts to fit (as standard), the cross rails need to go next, and then the top shock mounts themselves mount just ahead of centre body assembly.
What I DON'T WANT TO DO at the moment is to cut down my existing frame rails. I want to build the truck as close to stock as possible to begin with, which means using the suggested and supplied cantilever setup, and then to (perhaps) work away from that, using this system as a benchmark to see I'm developing further in either a positive or negative direction.
When I get a chance I'll draw up the new rails on paper (or a screen). I'd have three options to get them made/make them to my specifications, contact Eric at ESP to see if he likes the idea and what he'd charge to have a go at a pair; try scrounging a suitable piece of similarly sized section and then cut and drill it myself; or go and see my mate Martin, who owns a lovely milling machine and sometimes only charges beer money!
Build proper - step 1
OK - here we go with the final build. I've assembled the axles, the lower links and the centre lower section. The holes in this for the links were oversize to begin with (see below) so these were packed out with slices of PVC plastic tubing. One thickness was sufficient in the underside holes, and two (different thicknesses) were required in the lower side holes. I used the conical washers as recommended, and everything screwed down nice and tightly. The heads of the screws gained a washer each, and M3 nylock nuts finished off this part of the assembly.
Packing for the batteries has been made from 1/4 inch closed cell foam, which actually used to be the base of a mouse-mat. Holes were punched to accomodate all the protruding screwheads and washers/nuts, this was done by filing a taper on the end of a handy off-cut piece of stainless tube and just pressing through by hand against a wooden block.
The batteries were taped together to form a '^' shape. For the time being they will be permanent fixtures in the truck, rather than being removable for charging. These ones are only 1900mAh each, and will be upgraded to about twice this capacity later (when funds allow).
The electrickery comes next. This is going to be easier with the chassis partly assembled, as it is now. Wire lengths need to be sorted, and I want to try an arrangement whereby both motor series and parallel wiring can be arranged to suit running conditions. (The plastic twin wall mount for the Tx and ESC can be better seen in this shot.)
Packing for the batteries has been made from 1/4 inch closed cell foam, which actually used to be the base of a mouse-mat. Holes were punched to accomodate all the protruding screwheads and washers/nuts, this was done by filing a taper on the end of a handy off-cut piece of stainless tube and just pressing through by hand against a wooden block.
The batteries were taped together to form a '^' shape. For the time being they will be permanent fixtures in the truck, rather than being removable for charging. These ones are only 1900mAh each, and will be upgraded to about twice this capacity later (when funds allow).
The electrickery comes next. This is going to be easier with the chassis partly assembled, as it is now. Wire lengths need to be sorted, and I want to try an arrangement whereby both motor series and parallel wiring can be arranged to suit running conditions. (The plastic twin wall mount for the Tx and ESC can be better seen in this shot.)
Thursday, 25 June 2009
Prime and Paint
'Zilla's gonna be black!
Key:
First-up everything got a good keying with a #400 grit sanding block. Aluminium is notoriously hard to get paint to stick to so this step is essential. Everything was then cleaned/degreased using cheepy (£1 a can) choke and carb cleaner.
Prime:
Priming was done with 1K etch primer, which actually bonds with the substrate material. Two coats on everything.
Paint:
Holts acrylic satin black goes on next. I usually try to get 4 coats on in all, starting with two very light ones with a fair-old buildup on the last. I messed up here because the long rails stuck to the paper, and one top sideplate flipped over as I tried to move it. Basically the choices are do it on paper, which minimises the amount of overspray getting into the atmosphere, or hang them up. I opted for the first, and as long as you move things about quite rapidly before the paint dries you can usually get away with it. Last thick coats are the worst to do. Never mind. The insides of the rails got plenty. Problem is I ran out of satin, now I've only got matt. Oh well - mix and match!
Key:
First-up everything got a good keying with a #400 grit sanding block. Aluminium is notoriously hard to get paint to stick to so this step is essential. Everything was then cleaned/degreased using cheepy (£1 a can) choke and carb cleaner.
Prime:
Priming was done with 1K etch primer, which actually bonds with the substrate material. Two coats on everything.
Paint:
Holts acrylic satin black goes on next. I usually try to get 4 coats on in all, starting with two very light ones with a fair-old buildup on the last. I messed up here because the long rails stuck to the paper, and one top sideplate flipped over as I tried to move it. Basically the choices are do it on paper, which minimises the amount of overspray getting into the atmosphere, or hang them up. I opted for the first, and as long as you move things about quite rapidly before the paint dries you can usually get away with it. Last thick coats are the worst to do. Never mind. The insides of the rails got plenty. Problem is I ran out of satin, now I've only got matt. Oh well - mix and match!
Monday, 22 June 2009
Shocks on
The shock absorbers are now here. 95 mm long and oil filled. £9.99 for four:
Also arrived - a set of Hot Racing 9T pinions and adjustable motor mounts:
Also arrived - a set of Hot Racing 9T pinions and adjustable motor mounts:
Wednesday, 17 June 2009
Slow progress
Well I have to be honest - not a lot has happened since I last posted. I had to sell some unwanted motorcycle parts to fund the next set of bits for the Zilla, and that's done now. So I've now got a Novak Rooster crawler edition ESC (£79), a second-hand Futaba R133F 3 channel receiver (£20) with a pair of crystals (£5), an assortment of other bits and pieces (<£5), with a set of 95mm shocks now on their way to me (cheapies @ £10 for 4).
Everything has moved into the kitchen, where the light is better:
As the photo shows, all the links have been covered with thick-wall heatshrink tubing to give them a bit of easily replaceable protection.
The initial electrics arrangement is essentially done. The ESC and the receiver are mounted in two layers of black plastic twin wall sheeting, which holds them in place really well, at this stage with no other fixing.
All being well, over the next couple of weeks I'll be at my bench and vice a fair bit, making and modifying various metal parts.
Everything has moved into the kitchen, where the light is better:
As the photo shows, all the links have been covered with thick-wall heatshrink tubing to give them a bit of easily replaceable protection.
The initial electrics arrangement is essentially done. The ESC and the receiver are mounted in two layers of black plastic twin wall sheeting, which holds them in place really well, at this stage with no other fixing.
All being well, over the next couple of weeks I'll be at my bench and vice a fair bit, making and modifying various metal parts.
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