This next piccy shows the back axle of the truck. To set the tracking right (well - straight anyway) I've had to add four M3 washers under the cross-rod jamnuts. If you look carefully you can see the top link/axle mount nut is just a squidge on the short side. My fault (partly) cos I put a washer on the other end of the screw. The bottom one works out perfectly as it doesn't need the extra length to go through the axle stay. The short steering rod worked out fine, even though I added an extra locknut on top of the bracket to both clamp the bracket better, and to raise the outer end so as to give it a straighter push/pull.
Moving to the front:
Here I've changed the top link screws for much longer ones, and put two extra M3 plain nuts on each screw, going on before the conical washer. This has had the effect of giving me just a bit more (5/32 or about 4mm) tyre-to-rod clearance. As standard, the tyres just brush the rods at full steering deflection, and now they don't. A future upgrade may well be to put wheel extensions on all four corners, to increase the track width (it seems various sizes are available). At the minute there is no point doing anything to the standard steering stops as the rods limit steering travel in any case.
Top down:
A rubbish pic I know (it's a cheap camera under artificial light) but you can just about see what I'm talking about re the tyre clearances (front at the top of the piccy).
Other bits:
Mostly ready to fit now. The servo mounts have been to the vice and received a radiusing on their bottom edges. A larger radius on one side (towards the centre of the truck) should mean they better match the profile of the gearboxes. Their top surfaces have been wrapped with thick wide plastic tape so that the double-sided tape used (white - as seen on one of them) to help mount the servos themselves won't take the paint off if I come to change it. Tape-to-tape will stick together better too.
And on with the electrics...
This is what I think I'll need. Basically I've got to pair off the batteries to supply the ESC; and then pair off the ECS output to supply both motors. I've got some standard 'Japanese' bullet connectors, which are exactly the same as Tamaya used in the first place, so I don't need to chop the motor connectors off. The other ones are heavy duty automotive 6.3mm female blades, which match the 2-1 male fitting blocks, these are to twin the motor supply. New wire is 16AWG, which is an upgrade on the stock variety, the difference in size is seen by comparing the standard piece (which has connectors on here).
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