This chassis is now completely assembled. It was a bit of a struggle getting the batteries (which have now been swapped out for 4600mAh packs) into place, being as they squash a fair way into their foam rubber padding. At least they don't require any additional retaining devices like cable ties or similar. The articulation looks good, and nothing contacts anything else where it shouldn't.
One thing that needs a bit of adjustment is the positioning of the cantilever-to-axle rods, being as they cant in different directions due to the fact that the main gearbox is not central to the main longitudinal axis of the truck in the first place. A small spacer with a longer screw on the right hand (as viewed here) side of each axle will do the trick. The plates that mount the rods to the axle stays haven't been painted yet because they are due to get trimmed (being as they are a universal left/right/front/back item). Also, the mounting holes which pre-exist in the axle stays are vastly oversize in the first place, so they need a bit of packing - I've done this before with M3 spring washers as they are the right size - unfortunately I haven't got any here right now. The next thing to do is to mount the new motors (along with their 9T pinions and adjustable motor mounts) and the steering servos.
One thing outstanding is to sort the differentials. I've got plenty of choices here:
1. leave them standard, which is going to help the steering but harm the traction;
2. lock the existing ones with something like JB weld or hot glue, which is going to do the complete reverse;
3. buy a pair of new output gears, which does away with the differentials all together;
or 4. buy Integy ball differentials, which are essentially limited-slip devices (and also the most expensive option).
There are also 5th to 7th options, all of which are to just lock up or semi-lock the rear end alone (by one of the three methods above).
Hmmm. A bit more thought is required!!
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